Tokyo Insights

Sunday, June 20, 2010
By Deb
I've known too many people who go to Japan or other countries on tour packages. Reason for their booking tour packages - convenience; just let the tour guide take you to this place or that place; hotels and meals are included.

Hmm. I do not like tour packages. Even the one about one and a half years ago - to the Holy Land (Egypt, Jordan and Israel). I would so much prefer to explore places, especially Jerusalem on my own.

Well, regarding Tokyo or Japan, I've discovered how easy it was to go on a free and easy trip, despite not knowing a word of the language. It was quite, quite impossible to get lost even in this vast city of 12 million people of Tokyo. Armed with a map of the subway/train lines, one can go practically anywhere, between 5am and 1 am every single day. How easy could it be?? Well, unless you are totally map-challenged and could not tell north from east, or could not read road signs. Or if you'd left your brains behind in your home country.

I've also discovered that not knowing the Japanese language was an advantage in Tokyo. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing. During instances when I did try out some Japanese phrases, I got more confused than when I simply started with English. Every Tokyo resident I have asked directions or help from could manage some sort of English, but of course, do choose your targets carefully and wisely.

For instance, do not ask elderly ladies for directions. I never did. They ought to be left alone and not have to contend with confused tourists.

I've also discovered that the female species (of which I am one) are more map-challenged than the male species. During my whole Tokyo trip, I can recall only asking ladies twice to clarify directions.

The first time, if I recall correctly, was when we were all cramped in a lift, and were looking for the onsen, or hot springs spa. In the lift with us were two ladies, pushing a pram which did not contain any babies, but two black poodles. Oooooooh, so cute, so cute, and I patted the poodles on their heads. And then, to clarify directions to the onsen, I showed them the address and asked if we were heading in the right direction.

The older lady pushing the pram of poodles shook her head at once - to indicate she had no idea or could not help us. The younger lady, I shall assume is the daughter, looked at the address, and somewhat nodded and somewhat said yes, the onsen was nearby.

The second time I asked the female species for directions was when I had just finished a great leafy breakfast plus iced coffee at Doutor, and I was looking for the Hanazono Shrine in Shinjuku. I decided to clarify directions with the two girls who were behind the counter of this popular coffee joint (even more popular than Starbucks!)

My Doutor breakfast.One of the many Doutor outlets all over Tokyo and the whole country.The Doutor outlet at the street junction.The first girl at Doutor - took one look at my map which I was pointing at, shook her head and called her colleague over. Her colleague was very helpful, and nice, and pored over my map for some time. I supposed, it was because the map was in English. Well, she tried to explain - all I was asking was which direction I should walk next - because this Doutor was at the corner of a junction and there were four roads. She took out a pen, and tried to pinpoint where we were, and then traced the path where I was to walk. Ok, that was good enough.

Now, do note at no point was I ever totally lost - I asked directions simply to clarify and ensure that I was indeed heading the right way, to save time. I was never totally lost in various parts of Tokyo, thank God.

Oops, just remembered - I did ask a lady during another instance for directions to some place. It was hilarous. This happened at the onsen and we had finished our bath and I was waiting for my sister to be done with her massage in another part of the building. I knew there was a little eating place or restaurant within the spa, and went to the lady behind the counter to ask for it. I also knew, that "restaurant" in Japanese is quite similar to English - the Romanised Japanese version is written as "resutoran".

So I asked - where is the restaurant? Er... res suu TOR ran??

After repeating it a few times to the blur lady, she, whom I finally realised didn't know much English at all, very helpfully pointed me the way. She even came out from behind the counter and took me all the way there, and even repeated, "rest suu toran". Except that it wasn't. It was the restroom. The ladies toilet.

Well, I nodded amiably, said "Hai!" and then "Arigatou" and then returned to my seat to wait for my sister. I had no need of the um... restroom at that time.

Lesson to learn: Ask men for directions. Do not ask the female species!

Our best occasion asking for directions and getting it, was when we were looking for the Tokyo Opera City in Shinjuku. We left our hotel and knew we could walk to it on foot, except that... the map we had was quite basic and we were not sure which direction it was at. While strolling uncertainly on the pavement, I saw one lone Japanese man walking towards us, and mentally decided to waylay him as soon as he was near enough, to ask for directions to the Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall. He was compared to the thousands of clones of salarymen in their suits and ties, was actually dressed quite casually.

So, the unsuspecting man approached. I confronted him with a "sumimasen", which is a very good word to memorise for all tourists going to Japan. Just say "Sumimasen" loudly to any Japanese and you will catch their attention. They will either stop and look at you inquiringly, or make way for you.

So, this fellow stopped walking at my "sumimasen" and I put the little map under his nose and asked "Doko?" He peered at it this way and that, and when we spoke English amongst ourselves, he also spoke English... good English! When he found out we came from Singapore, he at once declared he had visited our lovely island twice, and his company has an office in Singapore. He spoke English!

Not only that, he was extremely helpful! He wasn't sure of the location of the Opera City himself, and so he whipped out his iPhone, or some sort of wonderful phone model, dialed his friend, and asked his friend who was at goodness-knows-where for directions to the Opera City.

It didn't stop there. This helpful Japanese gentleman, after confirming directions with his friend on the phone, told us he would take us part of the way, to our great delight. And he set off at a great speed, as usually all Japanese would walk, great strides, great speed, while some of us wearing killer high heels had big trouble keeping up. Along the way, we chatted, and he told me he would visit Singapore again in October. Well, you are MOST welcome!

He took us part of the way, as he promised, and then gave me back my map and pointed out the rest of the way to us. We made it to the Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall in good time, with 5 minutes to spare before the performance of the Vienna Boys Choir.

Oooooh, because of such good experiences, I could not wait to visit the land of the Rising Sun again. Wonderful, helpful people, despite their some time limited English abilities! And, oh yes, I did find the real restaurant, not the restroom, at the spa eventually, and we had lunch there.

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